Photo guide to installing the BBS01 (on a new Pashley Sonnet)

What you need:

  • Bike: If you don't have a bike, and want a new one, you can order a Pashley through Slowcycles. It is a classic English bike, beautiful and surprisingly well-priced (NZ$1,395 and N$1,695 plus $75 shipping).
  • Chain: Unless you bike has a 46 tooth sprocket or larger, you may need to buy a new chain. Sram has worked before (but may not work on a Pashley). Here is a mail order place with good prices:
  • Saddlebag, handlebar bag or straps for rear rack: The battery is the size of a brick. It has to go somewhere. On the Pashley, it zip-ties beautiful just below the front basket on the front rack. On the Bella Ciao, it is on the rear rack. On the Gazelle in a large Ortleib handlebar bag. On the Raleigh DL-1 it is a custom leather bag we sewed


  • Buy plenty of strong, black zip ties. Placemakers may have them. Here is a web site: Also bring a zip-tie cutter.
  • Have a padded blanket. You will turn the bike upside down, and don't want it to get scratched.
  • Chair or stool: its easier to work sitting down
  • Parts and tool table
  • Tools: Full metric hex set, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15 mm wrenches, phillips head screwdrivers (sizes 1 & 2), vice grips, possibly rubber hammer and grinder
  • Special tools (worth getting or borrow) crank remover, bottom bracket remover, possibly locking nut wrench
  • Plastic containers: the little bits can get lost
  • Storage bag: You will be removing your brakes, bottom bracket, cranks and sprocket which you will want to keep in case you upgrade and want to return the bike to non-motor

Decide where the battery goes. Choices include

  • Saddlebag behind saddle
  • Handlebar bag up front
  • Rear rack
  • Front or rear basket with some straps to hold down temporarily (take battery with you, say to charge whilst at work) or zip ties if permanent.
  • Or on this Pashley, zip tied under the basket on the steel rack that holds the basket. It fits nicely.

 Remove the pedals from the cranks (leftside has reversed thread) and then remove the cranks using a special tool.

 It will look like this

 Then remove the bottom bracket using a special tool. This size fits most bikes.

 This is what it looks like removed.

 Remove chain and the other bottom bracket retaining nut using the same tool

Inspect the bottom bracket shell.

 Slide the motor shaft in the bottom bracket shell. 

At first, it seemed as if this bottom bracket shell had tubes protruding into the shell. This photo shows the shaft not easily going all the way in.

If that happens, you have to grind the shell, but be careful to not damage the threads if you ever want to remove the motor and reinstall a threaded bottom bracket

This is a good tool for grinding  

 However, in this case a gentle tap with a rubber hammer was all that was needed to slip the motor shaft in the shell. 

 This bracket prevents the motor from moving. Slide it on and screw the bolts in just enough to hold it

Then either using a special tool or carefully using vice grips tighten the pressure nut and locking nut until firm. Then tighten the support brace bolts.


 Then bolt the chain ring on. Sometimes you can do this with the chain affixed. Make sure offset is over the motor as shown.

 Then you can install the chain cover. Note that we also left the original chain guard mount on. Not sure if it will fit or need some adaptors fabricated.

 Screw in the screws that hold the plastic cover on

 It will look like this.

 Then slip the cranks on and tighten

And repeat for the other crank 

 Time to get the speed sensor. Zip ties are not included. Make sure you have a lot of them on hand.

The two silver pieces bolt together over a spoke. The one part has a slot for a screwdriver, the other has a magnet facing the sensor

 THis is what the sensor looks like installed. Note that we found we had to loop it to clear the bike. We have zip tied the sensor, but have not yet zip tied the cable.

 This is what it looks like after installing the pedals (from your old crank).

 Time to zip tie the cable to the battery and the controls

 Note that the controls are colour coded and can only fit one way

Next you go to the handlebar

Remove the grips (if you have trouble, try sliding a thin screwdriver inside and spray with silicone to break loose.

Remove the old brake handles. You may need to disconnect them from the brakes to get enough cable room

Remove any other controls, such as gear shifters

Plan out the install of the new ebike controls to fit. Some of this will depend on what's already on the bike.

Some batteries come with a special on-off switch. You can install this on the handlebar.

 This is what the display looks like when installed

 This shows the installed ebrake handle and the speed control (1-2-3) upside down before the final bolts installed

 On the other side, install the thumb throttle (if your unit has one) and the other ebrake handle


Plug in the battery

Some batteries come with a special on-off switch. You can install this on the handlebar.

Make sure the switch is ON, and then press the on button on the display control.

If the display comes on, you may be ready for a ride.

Success! A few bikes already left before the proud owners smile-shot. All of these were push bikes in the morning, ebikes by afternoon.  Part of the 2014 group buy of 27 Bafang midmount motors.

Bikes (left to right): Pederson, Velorbis Scrap, [Brand? Mixte with curve toptube], [Brand? Modern aluminium], 1980-90's Gazelle A-Touren, Bella Ciao Neorealista, Pashley Sonnet, 1951 Raleigh DL1